First, wait. Once Salon 2006 is uncorked, give it a little time to breathe and stretch. Then look at him: light-coloured, blond with silvery green highlights. The bubbles, so fine, rise steadily and release bewitching aromas, typical of Salon on waking. Floral notes, citrus zest, slightly toasted brioche. Then come in the glass autumnal notes, fresh hazelnuts, praline, dry apricot, ripe yellow fruits. A great romantic, all the freshness of youth weighted down with vital experience. The mystery and charm are there. Knowing how to be refined, but generous, airy but solid. The impression of this dual character is confirmed in the mouth, where the structure is impeccable – a question of education. But it is both like flesh and like an arrow. And the moderate acidity heralds thirty years of cellaring – life ahead. The seductions can be many, from thin slices of Jamón Ibérico, which together with Salon 2006 make a hell of a duo, to an extra dark chocolate tart, mashed potatoes with truffles, or even sublime eggs with truffles, a carpaccio of red tuna, everything we like and that doesn't weigh much.